On the Shores of Canakkale
I was awoken that morning in my lodge room by the blast of a ship’s whistle as it sailed via Canakkale Strait - the Dardanelles. The city was still asleep, apart from the bakers who had started work before daybreak and have been already filling crates with oven-scorching bread and the newspaper delivery vans. An inter-metropolis coach full of sleepy passengers rumbled its way into the city. After purchasing some golden, crusty loaves of bread, I drove off. I planned to make my way via Geyikli to Assos, a distance of 92 kilometers. Six kilometers past the signpost to Troy, I turned off the primary highway in direction of Geyikli and Bozcaada. The first village I passed through was Tastepe, followed by Pinarbasi, Mahmudiye, and Uvecik. Beyond Uvecik, I came to a fountain and stopped for breakfast. I boiled water and made myself a cup of tea. The solely sound was that of dozens of various birds. On the plaster of the simple water fountain, the craftsman had written ‘Kumburun Village Association Fountain 1941’. So for over half a century, this watering-place had been a halt for travelers, wild creatures, and birds.
After leaving Kumburun, I reached Geyikli, where I took the highway signposted to Bozcaada island and was soon at Odunluk Quay on the Aegean, where the ferries leave for Bozcaada. A few fishing craft were tied up at the pier, on which some anglers had been fishing. Here there are a handful of restaurants and cafés, and some guest houses offering accommodation in the summer season.
Then he went inside to fetch sweets for his visitors. Along the wall of his blue painted house was a row of old tin cans containing a mass of various vegetation: basil, chili peppers, tomatoes, numerous colored geraniums, fuschias, and carnations, transforming the pavement into a colorful avenue garden.
This was the neighborhood of Giritli bordering on Mutareke Square. With its old homes lining the highway alongside the seafront, I was reminded of the Bosphorus. The old a part of Mudanya is now an urban conservation space, centering round the main streets of Oniki Eylul, Fevzi Pasa and Mustafa Kemal Pasa, and the facet streets leading off them.
Scattered amongst the homes shaded by great plane bushes are old buildings where once olives were saved and processed for oil. This space is an 18th-century church that now homes the Ugur Mumcu Cultural Center.
From Odunluk Quay, I drove on once more, turning off to go to the picturesque fishing village of Dalyan, which has some small fish eating places dealing with the ocean. Here, a hundred and fifty meters south of the fishermen shelter, are the ruins of the traditional harbor of Alexandria Troas. The ruins of the town correct are spread over a large area two or three kilometers away from the village. Alexandria Troas was founded in 310 BC by Alexander the Great’s common Antigonos, who called the town Antigonus. Following the dying of Alexander, King Lysimachos of Thrace brought in settlers from the surrounding area to the city, which he renamed Alexandreia Troas. The city was largely destroyed in a subsequent earthquake, however the remains of the theatre, palace, agora, temple, baths, necropolis, and metropolis walls are still worth seeing.
The theatre and palace lie west of the principle street amidst thick bushes and are virtually unimaginable to seek out with out the help of a guide. If it had not been for the detailed instructions of Sait, a neighborhood shepherd whom I encountered, I would never have found either. Right by the necropolis are the Kestanbol thermal springs. Troy, about 30 kilometers to the north, overshadows the opposite ancient websites of the world, the place the Troy Festival begins in the course of the first week of August and continues for fifteen days yearly. The program of concert events and numerous other occasions attracts visitors from villages all around. My subsequent cease after Dalyan was the small town of Gulpinar, the traditional Chrysa.
On the way in which, it's possible to make a detour to the village of Ulukoy, near which are the ruins of another ancient metropolis, Neandreia, courting from the late eighth century BC. In the Bahcelerici district of Gulpinar is the Temple of Apollo Smintheus, the place excavations are persevering with beneath Prof. Coskun Ozgunel.
This Ionic type temple built in a hundred and fifty BC is the one surviving example of its type within the Troad area of northwest Anatolia. Featuring a double row of blind columns, it is the work of Hermogenes, the architect who set his stamp on the Hellenistic interval Anatolian structure. This region is rich in underground water sources, and in antiquity, it is thought that underground channels equipped the city with water.
The cult of Apollo centered round places with an ample water provide, since clear spring water was required for Apollo to make prophecies. Neandreia was the regional most important oracular center. On the coast, 9 kilometers southwest of Gulpinar is Babakale, Turkey’s most westerly point. Here is the last fort built by the Ottomans, in 1723. One of the most popular bathing seashores is the bay of Ak Liman, which lies just to the north. The area was infested by pirates in previous centuries and had a nautical custom.
The sixteenth-century Ottoman seaman and cartographer, Piri Reis, relates in his Book of Navigation that the tomb of a seaman named Peksimetyemez Latif Baba, who was buried in Babakale, was revered by sailors.
Whenever the Ottoman naval fleet sailed previous Babakale, the crews would toss bread into the ocean within the direction of the tomb for good luck, a customized which remains to be adopted by local fishermen and those on boating holidays within the space. Now I turned eastwards in direction of Behramkale, better identified by its historical name Assos, my last stop. This journey is full of surprises. You would possibly occur throughout a spring or harvest pageant in one of the villages you pass via, or a wedding celebration, lending a putting shade to your travels. Local individuals will inform you of visitors caught up in such festivities which ended up staying for days in villages they had had no intention of even stopping at.
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